Memphis at the Santora
Reviewed By David Ethridge
More than 20 years have passed since I moved to Southern California from my native Georgia. I don’t miss the muggy summers or the persistent racism and homophobia, but what I do miss is that good ol’ Southern cookin’. Fortunately, I’ve found Memphis! I don’t mean the city in Tennessee; I’m talking about the restaurant and bar right here in OC.
You may know of Memphis Café in Costa Mesa, by the Lab Anti-Mall. There is also their sister restaurant, Memphis at the Santora, in the downtown Santa Ana Artists Village.
I had the pleasure of dining there recently with Blade publisher, Bill LaPointe. The restaurant hosted a fundraiser for The Center, Orange County, donating 10 percent of each check to our community services center. Many of The Center’s staff, volunteers and supporters enjoyed a wonderful meal and stimulating conversation in the special and electic atmosphere of Memphis at the Santora.
Housed in one of the beautifully restored historic buildings in the Santa Ana Artists Village, this Memphis offers a modern yet very comfortable ambiance, perfect for either a romantic dinner or a gathering with family or friends. There is also an outdoor dining patio so you can enjoy the people and sights of the vibrant arts district.
Start your meal with one of the delectable appetizers. We ordered the Southern rock crab cakes. They arrived at the table fresh and hot, perfectly brown on the outside with just enough crunch. On the inside the crab was light and flavorful. They were served on a bed of dressed frisse with an absolutely delicious smoked tomato buerre blanc. Definitely a nice take on an old favorite.
We also tried the cajun trio of cornmeal fried prawns, blackened scallop and grilled chicken andouille sausage. All three of the elements on the plate were very tasty, most especially the scallop. They came with a hot pepper-honey sauce, but were all quite good on their own. A mouth-watering bunch of seasoned collard greens complemented the proteins nicely. These were just the way I like my greens, served tender but not cooked to pieces, with a slight tang of vinegar from the pepper sauce.
I noted some other great appetizers options on the menu that I plan to try on a future visit. I was salivating just reading about the memphis style baby back ribs in Memphis’ house-made sauce. The smoked chicken and brie quesadilla, with avocado and corn salsa and watercress also sounded intriguing. But I’m really dying to try the cornmeal fried popcorn shrimp tacos!
For an entree, Bill feasted on a hearty piece of sea bass, served with a savory risotto and haricot vert. The fish was fresh and perfectly cooked.
I ordered the buttermilk fried chicken, looking forward to one of my favorite dishes from childhood. When the dish first arrived, I was a bit disappointed to find not pieces of fried chicken like I expected, but rather a boneless breast with the wing attached and the wing bone Frenched. Once I took a bit of this delicious fried chicken, I forgot all about the fact that it wasn’t traditional bone-in pieces. The buttermilk batter gave a great crunch and was spot-on with the seasoning. Served with a homestyle country gravy over buttery mashed potatoes, the boneless breast hovered in that lovely gray area between fried chicken and chicken fried steak. The Frenched wing also gave me a perfect little handle to pick up the piece of chicken. I do enjoy getting to eat with my fingers!
Some of the other entrees on the menu include blackened or pan roasted chicken breast served with mashed potato pancakes, haricot vert, barbecued corn on the cob and a lemon thyme sauce. The jambalaya also sounds scruptious: dirty rice with chicken and andouille sausage, gulf prawns, Prince Edward Island mussels and manila clams in a smoky shrimp broth.
Meat lovers can try the grilled pork porterhouse, with soft polenta, braised red cabbage and a balsamic-dried cherry reduction, or the certified angus beef® soul burger with chipotle aioli, pepper jack cheese and house made BBQ sauce served with shoestring fries.
Vegetarians might enjoy the grilled, marinated eggplant, withgoat cheese and frisee, barbecued shitakes, baby broccoli, and mashed potato pancake with sorell sauce. Or you could probably make an entire meal out of those delicious collard greens! This is also a good time to mention the fried okra I saw on the menu of sides.
After this massive meal, I was too full to have dessert, but I did order one of their signature bread puddings to take home to my honey. It’s one of his favorites, and the one from Memphis did not disappoint. Sweet and delectable, it was a warm and soothing reminder of good ol’ Southern cookin’.
Memphis at the Santora is located at 201 N. Broadway, Santa Ana, in the Artists Village. Lunch is daily from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner is 5 p.m. to 10 p..m on Wednesday and Thursday, 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Scrumptious Sunday Brunch is from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Call (714) 564-1064 for information.
The original Memphis Café is at 2920 Bristol Ave., in Costa Mesa, by The Lab Anti-Mall. Lunch is daily from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner is 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Monday and Tueday, 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. Wed.-Sat., and 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sunday. Brunch is served both Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Call (714) 432-7685 for more information.
You can also visit memphiscafe.com online for information on both locations.